Alright so its been a couple weeks since I got the HTPC in working order and since then I've been playing with trying to get the thing as optimal as possible as well as preparing for the final component, the LED controller. Here's a quick summary of my findings.

  • The AMD A6 3650 is quite a nifty processor but it puts out quite a bit of heat with sucks. Fortunately, based on this post it can be under-volted to 1.2V while maintaining its full clock rate! It reduced the idle temp by 9C and the load temp by 12C!
  • I was also able to overclock the crap out of the GPU side of the A6 to well over 40% of stock frequencies. I could have kept going higher but considering my temperature concerns I decided to refrain.
  • The extra fans aren't needed at all. With the CPU fan drawing in air directly from the outside the case gets plenty of circulation all by itself. Makes the system MUCH quieter. I decided to keep one fan on the hard drive because its a cheap and very, very quiet fan.  

Now here's a big one that i forgot to mention before i think. The power connector between the Xbox PSU and the Pico PSU needs ​MORE THAN 1 GROUND​. I was having stability issues with the system until i added a jumper between the grounds on the power connector. You can see what i'm talking about below in the green wire. 

Here is a photo from below to get an idea of what those pins above mean: ​I HAVE FLIPPED THE IMAGE HORIZONTALLY SO IT IS EASIER TO READ. 


Now onto the LED controller!

First here is some quick links to what i used to get it working.

Please note: I have yet to program my chip so i have not tested out the LED controller to see if it works. But i'm pretty sure it will! 

Tutorial to get the RF-Board working :

Here is the how-to for getting the LED's working:

The pinout for the RF-Board connector can be found in the pdf here:

Wiring diagram for the PIC16F628A that loosely used:

Be careful with this wiring diagram above and make sure you understand what is getting connected to what and not just blindly soldering things together because the connectors pictured are not intuitive ( to me at least ) and the pin numbers on the J1 RC-CON do not match up to the actual connector.

The pins should be numbers like this instead to match the pinout in the documentation:

 1 2 3 4
5 6 7 8 9

The only changes i made to this diagram is that instead of relying on the power button on the board to start the controller sync process I pulled the sync button from the dead xbox and stuck it on there. Since the power button puts the signal to ground when its pressed all that needs to be done is to take pin 9 from the micro controller and feed it to the button and connect the other side of the button to the nearest ground. In my case this was the USB ground. 

Now for the photos, please forgive me for using the same color wire I ran out of all the other colors! As always you can click on a photo to enlarge it!

Here is a photo of all the components on the board in place!


Here is a photo of the underside connections, please note that the front of the connector is on the bottom right. The purple wire is the power button switch positive line, black is ground, white is the USB data positive & negative, and the yellow is the +3.3Volt from the USB connector that is out of frame on the left. 


Here's one of it inside the case! What is neat about sealing power from the USB 5V is that the it is completely disconnected from the rest of the board and can be unplugged and powered off at will without messing with the power button! So all that is needed is a serial header, USB header, and the connector for the motherboard PWR button. 


Now what's really cool is that really the PIC chip isn't needed because controllers can be sync'd using this method. I may end up taking this route because the programmers for these little buggers are quite expensive for something i only need to use once. 

​Now to finish things up!

Throw some hot glue on this bitch


Put some electrical tape under just to be sure nothing happens.


Stuff everything in there and close it up:


That's it, all done.... FOR NOW..  If i do happen to get the chip in and get it working i'll post up here. If you have any questions please comment!


Here are the links to the other parts of this build, check them out!

Part 1:

Part 2: